Archive for the ‘Cuisine’ Category
Renowned for its extraordinary fountains and talented favorite son, Cezanne; Aix-en-Provence manages a lovely blend of enchanting culture, vibrant youth and stimulating history. But wait – the marketplace alone adds a huge dimension to the city, and the restaurants entice you at every bend in the road! We arrived in Aix during the artisan craft fair, “Les Calades Provencales” and were able to meander along the stunning, tree-lined Cours Mirabeau to take in the original works of dozens and dozens of craftsmen and women.
A quiet, personable potter demonstrated ease with his wheel. Bright, hand-painted scarves drifted from canvas awnings. With every turn of the head, we immersed ourselves in this treasury of talent – exotic jewelry, perfumes and ceramics, intricate wood creations and handsome textiles.
We stopped to chat – yes, in halting French but quite adequate – with a lovely young woman with a trés chic array of hand-crafted shoes and sandals. The talented designer, Veronique Baron, epitomized the charming, soft-spoken French woman.
Born in la Drome, Veronique carries on the proud traditions of her father and grandfather. Early on, she designed shoes in her father’s workshop. After earning her degree in shoe design and practicing her talent with freelance work, Veronique realized her dream with the birth of “Dans la garrigue”. In the heart of a sunny pine forest, she creates each shoe and purse, piece by piece in her atelier (workshop).
Isn’t that kind of chance encounter one of the priceless rewards of travel? In the midst of one of the most beautiful cities of France, we made this small connection that added immeasurably to our enjoyment of the artisan fair and the city itself.
Naturally, we needed some time to absorb our experiences and stopped at one of Aix’s many canopied cafes. We capped our lovely adventure with delicious ham and cheese gallettes, salad and pichet of wine with a strolling guitarist to perfect our Aixoise moment.
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You discover everything appetizing with French dining. Like this lovely pear tarte, so appealingly beautiful, with sweet aromas and a golden crust….and we haven’t even tasted it yet, but the promise is so alluring.
Last year … and the year before … we couldn’t be in Paris for Valentine’s Day; so we did the next best thing. We stopped in for breakfast at our favorite local ‘patisserie’. The atmosphere was so pleasant, complete with quiet “bonjours” and customers gazing over the expansive pastry choices to selects their croissants or quiche.
In that natural French way, we lingered over our coffees and heard the simple bits of conversation that drifted our way. One couple shared quite a delicious looking ‘breakfast croissant’ complete with egg, ham and cheese; while two ‘rowdy’ garcons spread Nutella over their pastries, the evidence peeking at us from the corners of their mouths.
To expand our enjoyable petite dejeuner, we went a step further. A lovely pear tarte caught my eye … and imagination! Alas, we would be able to share this elegant dessert at home with our Valentine’s meal. We still would have preferred to be in Paris for the day, but we were able to bring a touch of Paris to us. And on another day, we even made our own pear tarte at home – perhaps not as delicate looking but every bit as enchanting in taste.
Life lesson? Even if you can’t travel when or where you want, you can create your own atmosphere and experience to enjoy. A tip of the hat to France from us.
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During a delightful 3-day visit to Aix-en-Provence, we enjoyed the added benefit of the artisan craft fair, “Les Calades Provencales.” Aix is famous for its many fountains and talented favorite son Cezanne, so it’s not surprising that artisans are celebrated here.
At any moment Cours Mirabeau offers an enchanting, tree-lined boulevard; but the fair magnified the magic. Elegant hand-painted scarves danced in the breeze, while artisans warmly greeted visitors explaining their crafts, demonstrating the potter’s wheel and generally serving as welcoming ambassadors in this dynamic city.
Hand-crafted shoes and sandals, exotic jewelry, perfumes and pottery spread all along the boulevard. The cobbler followed generations of the art of shoemaking; the silk scarves were painted by hand.
After a pleasant stroll to examine the many gorgeous crafts, we stopped at one of Aix’s many canopied cafes. Ummm – delicious ham and cheese galette, a pichet of wine and a strolling guitarist made for a relaxing Aixoise experience.
We would offer a hearty thumbs up to any planning a trip to this lovely area. An easy drive from Avignon, Aix-en-Provence and the surrounding area immerse you in an enchanting landscape, exceptional architecture and abundant dining choices.
You might wander through Cezanne’s landscape and stop for dinner in Greoux-les-Bains or take in the grand Pont du Gard aqueduct; but parking yourself at a café along the boulevard provides plenty of enjoyment!
For a royal experience, one might expect a royal price tag; and Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc does not disappoint in either category. A luxurious and lavish resort delightfully positioned on the tip of Cap d’Antibes, the hotel has long been the chosen mecca for celebrities and privileged guests through the ages. No doubt they have left a trail of interesting tales in their wake.
Words simply cannot capture the legendary hotel. From 1870, the “Villa Soleil” welcomed writers looking for inspiration, but in 1885 a Piedmontese hotelier set his vision in motion and transformed the Napoleon III-style villa into the unparalleled Hôtel du Cap. One of the most interesting hotel embellishments is the seawater swimming pool carved into the rock, though the seaside “cabins” (33 cabanas, in all) and Eden-Roc Pavilion are equally alluring.
Now celebrating its 100th Anniversary, the hotel was recently refreshed with a €45million refurbishment that preserved and enhanced the resort’s stunning, authentic quality; while adding every contemporary convenience and several new amenities. Imagine refined, spacious rooms and luxury appointments, the sumptuous Bellini Bar, gourmet restaurant and assorted intimate bars and grills. There’s even a fresh Juice and Ice Cream Bar in the shade of the Alep pines – parfait for the children!
Open only from mid-April to mid-October, the five-star hotel rates are equally ‘handsome’ for accommodations ranging from standard, classique and Supérieure rooms to a private villa complete with your own butler. Gala events planned for the celebratory year include a magnificent gourmet evening with some of the world’s best sommeliers and Michelin-starred chefs.
But I have a humorous twist to this story. The postcard shown was sent to my father in Paris from a lady friend staying at the hotel in 1932. In part, her message reads, “Here I am at this wonderful place – $6.00 a day for room, bath and meals (in between seasons) … You ought to see the scanty one-piece bathing suits. Oh, I don’t know where I’ll end – the temptations are lovely and many.”
The prices surely have changed, but I rather imagine the temptations to still be … lovely and many.
In visiting Lyon for the first time, we were so fortunate to have a connection … through our landlord in Paris, no less! We phoned him and enjoyed several outings in the city he knew so well.
One evening he told us about a very unique cook book; and so, after dinner in Vieux Lyon, we climbed with him up to Villa Florentine in the Fourvière district. Not only did our friend know the book would be available there, he understood we would be enthralled with the five-star hotel and view over the old city.
Over a mellow drink of brandy by the pool, he told us the appealing story behind “Cuisinière Lyonnaise”. On a misty morning the Villa’s chef, Stéphane Gaborie, wandered through a flea market. He discovered an old recipe book, beautifully calligraphed and filled with family ‘recettes’.
The book opens with “Remarques Préliminaires” (preliminary remarks). One entry, for example, deals entirely with the making of mustard – with water, salt, pepper, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. Monsieur Gaborieau poured his heart into the making of this exquisite cookbook that fellow chef Paul Bocuse described as a “tribute to an unknown Mother”.
- Not only do we see page after antique-looking page of the beautiful script and succulent recipes of this unknown woman, we have an exceptional treat at the end – the comments and recipes from 15 of the world’s most renowned chefs. How touching to read the nostalgic comments about cooking by the side of their own grand mères.
Repeatedly each chef refers to seasonal fresh vegetables and fruits, free-range chickens and field-grazed cows. Their devotion to the highest quality ingredients offers a testament to their profession. The comments of a Lyonnais chef, Pierre Orsi, are particularly sweet. “… these traditional family recipes take on a new and unusual dimension in the pen of a young woman, who, in my mind’s eye, is precise, refined and delicate. This is an exceptional work.”
[Note: the book is part of the Stéphane Bachès collection of cookbooks – a delightful range of regional and themed books.]
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